Rating the Wine-Store Pairings

We visited 12 wine stores (anonymously) and asked them to choose awine under $20 to pair with a savory, rustic dish called rigatonicountry style.

Here are our favorite pairings, from best to worst. All of thesewines are from Italy except the Petite Sirah, which is fromAustralia, and the Carmenere, which is from Chile.

The prices listed are the prices we paid. Eight are red. The PinotGrigio, Gavi, Monferrato and Frascati are white.

VINEYARD/VINTAGE: Ca'Montini 'L'Aristocratico' Pinot Grigio(Trentino) 2004

PRICE: $16.99

PLACE PURCHASED: Mister Wright, Manhattan

TASTERS' COMMENTS: Best of tasting (tie). The bright acidity ofthe wine …